When I was a kid, I was always fascinated with the idea of a house that had all sorts of built-in defences like booby traps, secret staircases and underground caverns. Turns out the Japanese actually built one in Kyoto, and it's called Nijo Jinya (二条陣屋).
This house was used by lords visiting Kyoto to conduct business, and it seems the company they kept could be rather suspect. Say a wrong word and a hidden samurai will drop straight on your head from a hidden spot in ceiling above you. Or maybe they'll come crashing through the wooden panel that you thought was just a cupboard.
Pull a lever and a staircase descends from the ceiling. Chase someone without watching where you're going and you'll have your ankles taken out by ankle breakers. And where exactly did that person go? He's already one floor up, through a small hole in the corner of the ceiling.
Fire was a big problem in Japan, with all the dense housing arrangement coupled with all the houses being made of wood. A large part of design of this house was thus to protect against fire, with access to wells, fire-retardant walls, hanging mats that could be splashed with water to ward off the fire.
Really cool place. Just remember to watch your step.
Monday, August 20, 2007
Black water
My friend's parents (they were really nice) brought me to visit this onsen (温泉) near their place in Tokyo. Onsens are really big deals in Japan, and people can spend the entire day soaking in the hot mineral water.
The one I went to had separate areas for men and women, though they do have some unisex ones too. I obviously have no pictures to show for my visit, and anyway they'd just be of saggy men wandering around butt naked. What you're supposed to do is to first wash yourself really clean (apparently people tell you if you haven't done a good job), and then into the hot water you go. And then you sit there till you can't stand it anymore, then you come out and shower to cool down, then you go in again. Repeat as desired.
Curiously, the water is black. My guess is that's because it's so infused with minerals. Apparently some company decided to dig 2 km into the ground to find this water, in an area not known for having hot springs (this is somewhere in sub-urban Tokyo). Why they suspected there'd be mineral water down below is beyond me. Was it good for me? Beats me too.
I could only stay in for about an hour before I was bored to tears, and when I told my host I was going back first he gave me this incredulous look: only one measly hour? My friend's mum stays in there for 3 hours every night, else she can't sleep well.
I guess it's a good thing I didn't really fall in love with it; I'd have to fly very far just to get one.
The one I went to had separate areas for men and women, though they do have some unisex ones too. I obviously have no pictures to show for my visit, and anyway they'd just be of saggy men wandering around butt naked. What you're supposed to do is to first wash yourself really clean (apparently people tell you if you haven't done a good job), and then into the hot water you go. And then you sit there till you can't stand it anymore, then you come out and shower to cool down, then you go in again. Repeat as desired.
Curiously, the water is black. My guess is that's because it's so infused with minerals. Apparently some company decided to dig 2 km into the ground to find this water, in an area not known for having hot springs (this is somewhere in sub-urban Tokyo). Why they suspected there'd be mineral water down below is beyond me. Was it good for me? Beats me too.
I could only stay in for about an hour before I was bored to tears, and when I told my host I was going back first he gave me this incredulous look: only one measly hour? My friend's mum stays in there for 3 hours every night, else she can't sleep well.
I guess it's a good thing I didn't really fall in love with it; I'd have to fly very far just to get one.
Nobody eats while walking in Japan
Except me. Apparently it's rude to do so, and I only found out about 2 weeks into the trip. People really do just stand or sit in one place (convenience stores are a common spot) to eat their food.
Behind closed doors
The traditional Japanese restaurant doesn't give much away. The facades are done so you can't see in and you can't see out, and sometimes you only know the name of the place and not much else. See exhibit A below, Misoka-an Kawamichi-ya. You really would have no clue what this place is all about just by looking at it.
This is actually one of Kyoto's best soba restaurants, and they've been around since 1710. Yes, that's right, 1710, just shy of 300 years. But they really don't shout about it, do they? The typical Japanese restaurant is somewhat reflective of the Japanese mindset: you can't see what's going on from the outside, but there's lots happening inside. You just have to get in first.
This is actually one of Kyoto's best soba restaurants, and they've been around since 1710. Yes, that's right, 1710, just shy of 300 years. But they really don't shout about it, do they? The typical Japanese restaurant is somewhat reflective of the Japanese mindset: you can't see what's going on from the outside, but there's lots happening inside. You just have to get in first.So how were the noodles?
So good I forgot to take a photo till I was done.
A tale of two kujis
This is Ginkakuji (銀閣寺), which translates to 'Silver Pavilion'. As you can see from the above, they never got around to putting on the silver coating. I guess the morale of the story is to name something after you're done?In contrast, they clearly got it right with Kinkakuji (金閣寺), the 'Golden Pavilion'.
Random message of the day
"Please collect your odd sized baggage from the odd sized baggage belts."
- Changi Airport
Saturday, August 11, 2007
Does Japan really have vending machines selling used panties?
Used to, but apparently not any more. See here.
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